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TurkeyTurkeyVisited Nov 2022 · 2 weeks

Ankara

Perpetually living in the shadow of Istanbul, but well worth a visit.

Great valueWould return
Average7.3
Accommodation6.5
Coworking7.5
Value8.2
Excitement7.2
Living costs, excl. rent~$882
Mild and dry
JFMAMJJASONDMild and dry: Mar, Apr, May, Sep, Oct, Nov
Nomad visaAvailable
Population5.6 Million
Fly into

ESB

This guide was written 3 years ago

Prices, opening hours and recommendations may have changed since my visit, so double-check anything important before you book.

The often overlooked capital city of Turkey, is a blend of history, culture, and modernity.

Known for its architectural wonders like the Atatürk Mausoleum and the ancient Roman Temple of Augustus, Ankara anchors the countries political, administrative, and cultural spheres.

Strongly recommend

Exceeded my expectations on every level and would definitely return for another stay. If already in Turkey, worth a couple of nights to explore on holiday.

At a glance

Accommodation

Good · #49 of 62

6.5/10

Airbnb always seems to be a bit hit and miss throughout the country and my experience in Ankara was no different. Depending on how long you're staying, you may want to consider a hotel for ease of convenience where the prices seem to be pretty competitive. I spent a week in the Kahya Otel Ankara which was a great place to explore the city from.

How it compares

Coworking

Good · #34 of 62

7.5/10

There's a strong selection of places to work from across the city with national chain Workinton operating in several places. I personally loved the time i spent at Ancowork which I've written about beneath.

Value

Great · #20 of 62

8.2/10

Ankara was great value for both eating out with prices similar to those in Istanbul and the rest of the country for food, drink and coffees.

Excitement

Good · #30 of 62

7.2/10

From everything I heard about Ankara before visiting, I was expecting it to have the ambience of a graveyard. I was pleasantly surprised. While it will always fall short compared to Istanbul, I found the area around Çankaya to be a great place to stay—lively and engaging throughout the day, with lots to explore for food, coffee and nightlife. There’s comfortably enough to keep you entertained for a month

How it compares

Plan

Summary

Having visited several cities on Turkey's southern coast, I made my way up inland, getting the bus from Adana. Having been dissuaded from anyone I had ever spoken to about visiting Ankara on the basis of it being an incredibly boring city, I was curious to see just how dull a metropolis of over 5 million people could be.

Republic Day celebrations outside of a kebab shop in Çankaya.
Republic Day celebrations outside of a kebab shop in Çankaya.

Cost of living

$882a month, before rent

Basic living costs, rent not included

Day-to-day spending for a month: two meals out and a coffee every day, three taxis and two nights out a week, a gym and a coworking desk. Add your rent on top.

Affordable
  • Meal in a casual restaurant$8.00
  • Speciality coffee$2.50
  • Pint of local beer$3.00
  • Cocktail$7.00
  • Taxi for 2 miles$4.00
  • Men's haircut$10
  • Women's haircut$25
  • Gym membership, monthly$72
  • Coworking, monthly$91

Prices as of Oct 2026. Confidence: medium (gym & coworking verified; other prices restated at 2026-10-07 exchange rates). Sources: numbeo.com, regus.com. Always check locally before planning around them.

Duration & season

Ankara has a radically different climate to the cities on the southern coast. November felt especially Autumnal with plenty of dry, clear and slightly chilly days. With no beach and sea access, you'd struggle to make a compelling argument on choosing it over other cities throughout the summer months, but I would certainly return again at that time of year.

By month

Typical temperatures and rainfall by month
MonthLow °CHigh °CRain mmNotes
January-1863wet month
February-1820
March02126
April52358wet month · peak season
May82554peak season
June163418peak season
July193713
August19356
September122926peak season
October52226peak season
November11726
December0856wet month
Wettest months Peak season

Typical daytime highs and overnight lows, from the last two years of observations (Open-Meteo). Rain icons mark the wettest months.

Visitors a year
500k2022
Crowds
Low
Peak season
Apr–Jun, Sep–Oct
Low season
Jul–Aug, Dec–Feb

Remote work visa

Digital nomad visa available

Turkey has launched a digital nomad visa programme for remote workers. If you're between 21 and 55 and hold citizenship from one of 36 countries across Europe and North America (including the US), you're eligible to apply.

The visa allows you to live and work remotely in Turkey for a set period, with benefits including affordable living costs, healthcare access, and the opportunity to experience Turkey's culture and scenery.

The requirements are standard for these types of visas. You'll need a valid passport with at least six months remaining, health insurance, proof of income, and documentation showing you're employed or self-employed.

The application process is handled online through Turkey's official platform. Once they've reviewed your documents and approved your application, you'll receive a Digital Nomad Identification Certificate. Take that certificate along with your supporting documents to a Turkish visa centre or consulate to complete the process.

Turkey is positioning itself to attract the growing digital nomad market. For remote workers considering their next base, Turkey offers lower living costs compared to most Western European destinations.

Read more about the visa

Working hours

Turkey adheres to GMT+2 in summer, reverting to GMT+3 in winter due to the absence of daylight saving time practices.

Live & work

Where to stay

Ankara is an enormous city and whilst it is moderately well connected with the metro, you'd be best off staying in one of the more lively hubs.

Altındağ

Would avoid

The northern half of the city, while not inherently bad, lacks the vibrancy found in Çankaya.

Bahçelievler

Recommended

A neighbourhood with more of a residential feel, I would strongly consider staying in Bahçelievler on a future visit. Lots of options for food and drink.

Tunalı

Recommended

What felt to me as the real heart of the city, a busy commercial hub with lots of great options for food and drink.

Where to work

There's a strong selection of places to work from across the city with national chain Workinton operating in several places. I personally loved the time i spent at Ancowork which I've written about beneath.

Ancowork coworking space

Ancowork

Top locationOutdoor space

Based around a ten minute walk from bustling hub of Tunali, Ancowork provides a great base to work from, with a large open plan coworking space on the ground floor and meeting rooms available for calls below.

There's a number of great coffee shops within 5 minutes walk from the office with the only downside being a slightly aggressive hill leading up to it.

There didn't appear to be any fixed member of staff working there when I arrived, so if planning to visit i would enquire ahead to make sure they are present.

Kavaklıdere, Barbaros Mahallesi, Tahran Cd. 19/A, 06680 Çankaya/Ankara

Food & drink

Coffee

Paper Roasting Coffee

Comfortable interiors, great quality speciality coffee and a variety of sweet and savoury snacks.

Rubber Soul Coffee

Great coffee served from super friendly staff. Short walk from the bustle of Çankaya.

Food

Meşhur Gülçimen Aspava ESAT

Top rated

I developed a real affinity to the Aspava Restaurant and this was my favourite. Huge portions and great quality food,.

Korelee

Top rated

Impressively good Korean food, only issue is that it everynight without fail the que was 50 deep by 19:00. Try at lunch.

Drinks

Minister Pub

Large sports bar, perfect for watching football. Recommend to book ahead if going on the weekend.

Off the clock

Off work

Eat at an Aspava

Eat at an Aspava

This style of Turkish restaurant appeared to be particularly popular in Ankara, with an enormous selection of meats, salads, chips and dips provided with each meal. Be prepared to eat a lot.

Walk through Bahçelievler

Walk through Bahçelievler

Situated next to Anıtkabir, this neighbourhood is definitely worth a stroll around, home to an array of coffee shops, bars and dining options.

Visit Anıtkabir

Visit Anıtkabir

Visiting Atatürk's final resting place Anıtkabir, is a must when in the capital. Brushing up on Turkey's last century of history beforehand adds depth to the experience and if you have spent any period of time in Turkey prior, you are likely to have seen his face dotted around the country. I would suggest getting there early on the weekend to beat any potential queues on arrival.

Walk up to Ankara Castle

Walk up to Ankara Castle

Situated just north of the centre, Ankara Castle and the surrounding area provide a glimpse into the cities historic past, with a museum at the top and panoramic views of the city.

Walk through ABB-Dikmen Vadisi Parkı

Walk through ABB-Dikmen Vadisi Parkı

Beautiful city park set in the Dikmen valley. Particularly impressive in Autumn as the valley inherits a autunumal hues from the falling leaves.

Exercise

Walk

Ankara Castle Walk

If you're staying in the centre, the castle is easily walkable within a morning, with the summit providing some great views over the entire city.

Walk

Dikmen Valley

Beautifully landscaped valley situated to the south of the city centre. Ideal for runs if staying nearby. Be prepared to go up and down a lot.

People

You're less likely to find an international remote community in Ankara compared to that in Istanbul or Antalya with only few tourists passing by either. Like with the rest ofTurkey, I found the local people to be particularly warm and engaging.

Autumn time in Dikmen Valley park. Perfect and moderately flat location for running in the centre.
Autumn time in Dikmen Valley park. Perfect and moderately flat location for running in the centre.

Notes

Positives

Great connections to Istanbul and the rest of the country.

The high speed train line is a great alternative to flying. The trains are modern, well run and comfortable.

Beautiful city parks.

The Dikmen Valley is a spectacular area which looked incredible with the autumnal leaves during November.

Less chaotic than Istanbul.

If you are looking for somewhere not quite as manic, Ankara may do the job.

A busy working city.

I found there was a great buzz in Ankara, only comparable with Istanbul and Izmir in the other cities in the country I've visited.

Negatives

It's an enormous city.

Traffic can be bad during rush hours so plan your journeys accordingly.

It is less memorable than Istanbul.

If you had to choose between the two, you would opt for Istanbul everytime. That being said, if you are in the country for a while, it's well worth adding into an itinerary.

Tips

Book in advance for the high speed rail line.

The morning and evening trains to Istanbul get sold out rapidly. If planning to use the train, book as much in advance as you can.

Cappadocia can be done over a weekend.

A three hour drive from the centre of Ankara.

If you don't like hills, avoid Çankaya.

Be prepared to be constantly going up or down.

Eid al-Adha is a major holiday usually around June.

Expect many offices to be closed during this time in a similar manner to Christmas in the UK.

Planning a trip to Ankara?

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