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PolandPolandVisited Aug 2024 · 6 weeks

Warsaw

An indistinct yet highly liveable city.

Great valueWould return
Average7.6
Accommodation7.6
Coworking8.4
Value7.8
Excitement6.5
Living costs, excl. rent~$1,354
Mild and dry
JFMAMJJASONDMild and dry: Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep
Nomad visaNone
Population1.7 million
Fly into

WAW & WMI

Poland's capital since 1596 was nearly razed during World War II.

Birthplace of Chopin and Marie Curie, Warsaw has been pivotal in Poland's cultural and political evolution, from royal seat to communist-era capital to modern democratic center. It's reconstruction earned the Old Town UNESCO status in 1980.

Worth it if you're nearby

Should you travel across the other side of the world to work from Warsaw? Probably not. But if you're already in Europe it ticks a lot of boxes for a month long mid summer stay.

At a glance

Accommodation

Good · #35 of 62

7.6/10

Warsaw still offers good value for accommodation compared to the capitals of Western European cities. With a bit of searching, you can find a quality apartment in a decent area for under €1,000 a month on Airbnb, which is inconceivable in neighbouring countries.

As a more unconventional destination for tourists, the city feels less affected by the seasonal fluctuations typical of peak holiday periods.

How it compares

Coworking

Great · #13 of 62

8.4/10

If you have WeWork access, the company offers outstanding coverage with five outlets spread across the city, all providing 24/7 access. Having visited all of them, I recommend the space at Menica Legacy Tower, which I’ve discussed in greater detail below.

Value

Good · #30 of 62

7.8/10

If you're visiting from a major Western European city, Warsaw still offers better value, though having visited Poland several times over the past decade, that gap is diminishing.

Meals from the cities numerous street food-style market outlets cost about 40 Zloty (£7.89), while prices in specialty coffee shops are almost identical to those in London.

Should you wish, you can eat out very inexpensively, with Bar Mleczny providing excellent value, typical Polish meals costing around 30 Zloty (£5.90).

On average, alcohol in bars and restaurants is still substantially cheaper, with local beer available for as little as 12 Zloty (£2.37).

Excitement

Good · #35 of 62

6.5/10

When comparing Warsaw to other world capitals, it does not rank favourably in terms of excitement. If you’re looking to be constantly swept up in bustling activity, it will likely fall short of expectations. As a destination, there just isn't anything particularly distinctive that would justify flying across the world to experience.

Compared to nearby capitals, it feels less immersive and memorable than Budapest but notably more energetic than Riga. This relaxed atmosphere may be attributed to its relatively low population density by international standards. Most public spaces, even in the city centre, and the metro rarely feel crowded.

However, these factors make it a highly liveable place to base yourself.

How it compares

Plan

Summary

I would be lying if I said I had a lifelong ambition to visit Warsaw.

However, with six weeks to fill between two weddings in the UK, it seemed like a reasonable and relatively local choice to fill a gap during the summer.

The areas surrounding Emilii Plater and Poznańska streets are among the nicest in the city, offering numerous options with tree-lined streets, outdoor seating for specialty coffees, and a wide range of international cuisines.
The areas surrounding Emilii Plater and Poznańska streets are among the nicest in the city, offering numerous options with tree-lined streets, outdoor seating for specialty coffees, and a wide range of international cuisines.

Cost of living

$1,354a month, before rent

Basic living costs, rent not included

Day-to-day spending for a month: two meals out and a coffee every day, three taxis and two nights out a week, a gym and a coworking desk. Add your rent on top.

Moderate
  • Meal in a casual restaurant$12
  • Speciality coffee$4.11
  • Pint of local beer$4.11
  • Cocktail$10
  • Taxi for 2 miles$7.19
  • Men's haircut$18
  • Women's haircut$41
  • Gym membership, monthly$47
  • Coworking, monthly$193

Prices as of Oct 2026. Confidence: medium (gym & coworking verified; other prices restated at 2026-10-07 exchange rates). Sources: numbeo.com, otodom.pl, otodom.pl. Always check locally before planning around them.

Duration & season

August felt like the perfect time to visit the city and make the most of its outdoor spaces. Most days featured clear, sunny conditions with temperatures in the high 20s.

There's little reason I would want to return to Warsaw outside of the summer months with the Polish winters being notoriously uninspiring.

By month

Typical temperatures and rainfall by month
MonthLow °CHigh °CRain mmNotes
January-2357snow
February0648
March01535
April22238
May62445peak season
June142868wet month · peak season
July163098wet month · peak season
August153062wet month · peak season
September112545peak season
October41456
November0941
December1436
Wettest months Peak season

Typical daytime highs and overnight lows, from the last two years of observations (Open-Meteo). Rain icons mark the wettest months.

Visitors a year
1.6M2024
Crowds
Medium
Peak season
May–Sep
Low season
Nov–Mar

Remote work visa

No digital nomad visa

Working hours

Poland operates on Central European Time (CET), aligning with the rest of Western Europe.

Safety

An incredibly safe city.

Compared to many other major European capitals, Warsaw feels significantly free of any trouble. There's a continuously visible yet non-intrusive Polish presence across the city, with the threat of petty crimes like opportunistic phone theft seemingly not on anyones radar.

Live & work

Where to stay

Compared to other cities, wherever you choose to stay in Warsaw is unlikely to dramatically impact your experience.

The city is easy to navigate, and no areas possess radically different architecture or characteristics that would affect the quality of your stay.

If you want to be as close to the centre as possible, I'd recommend staying on the Eastern side of the river.

Old Town

Would avoid

There's no real reason to stay in the Old Town itself which is mainly geared towards tourists. Not inherently a bad place but it's unlikely you'll spend a lot of time there otherwise,

Powiśle

Located on the west bank of the Vistula River, Powiśle is within a short walk of the commercial centre and Old Town. This riverside district has undergone significant revitalisation in recent years.

Muranów

I stayed here on my most recent trip. Around a 30-minute walk into the center, Muranów is a mainly residential area with more of a neighborhood feel. Better for longer trips. This district has a poignant history as the former site of the Warsaw Ghetto, now commemorated by several museums and memorials.

Where to work

If you have WeWork access, the company offers outstanding coverage with five outlets spread across the city, all providing 24/7 access. Having visited all of them, I recommend the space at Menica Legacy Tower, which I’ve discussed in greater detail below.

Additionally, there are many other operators in the city, reflecting Poland’s status as a technology hub in the region.

WeWork - Mennica Legacy Tower coworking space

WeWork - Mennica Legacy Tower

Good coffeeTop locationQuality fit-outOn-site café

Of the 5 WeWork destinations in the city, this tops the list.

Situated adjacent to the Fabryka Norblina food, retail, and entertainment hub, WeWork occupies the entirety of this eight-floor block, with large communal spaces on both the first and seventh floors. The first floor features a spacious, quiet, and well-lit open seating area for all access members, along with a large outdoor balcony providing panoramic views across the city.

There are numerous lunch options in the immediate vicinity, with over ten street food outlets in Fabryka and other restaurants serving the commercial offices in the Wola area.

Having visited each of the other locations numerous times, this one feels like it offers the best balance of space, ambience, and facilities. Each site across the city has a dedicated barista from 08:00 to 15:00, serving surprisingly good coffee from local Etno Cafe.

Other destinations in the city:

Krucza 50 - Potentially the best situated in the city, close to the Centrum metro station. However, the communal area on the second floor isn't the best for focused work.

Hotel Europejski - Located in a beautiful building from the 1800s just moments away from the Old Town, this site suffers from a lack of ambience during the daytime. There are limited lunch options nearby, with few other offices in the vicinity.

Grzybowska 60 - A great option during the summer months, featuring a large balcony area on the 8th floor.

Grzybowska 62 - The smallest of the sites in the city. While there is seating for All Access Members, it feels more like a common area for the private office facilities in the rest of the building.

Prosta 20, 00-850 Warsaw, 00-850

Food & drink

Coffee

Food

Viet's Baguette

Top rated

After extensive sampling, this is comfortably the best Banh Mi in town. Choose from a range of 20 fillings, all freshly made and offered at an excellent price.

Pizza na Chmielnej

A popular local spot for remarkably good pizza by the slice. Expect long queues in the evenings as punters soak up their beers.

MADAMe Thai Restaurant

Top rated

Warsaw has plenty of questionable Thai restaurants, but this one stands apart as being a true authentic option. It offers a small menu, outdoor seating, and prompt service.

Señor Lucas Taquería

Top rated

Some of the best Mexican food I've had in recent years, with fresh, authentic ingredients. Expect long queues on weekends, but more manageable during the week before 19:00

Drinks

Kraken Rum Bar

Four bars and kitchens come together, offering a lively mix of beers, cocktails, and street food, with the option of outdoor seating.

Resort Warszawa

Part café, part bar, part entertainment venue, Resort is an unassuming spot for drinks at any time of the day, located just outside the Old Town.

Off the clock

Off work

Visit the Tatra Mountains

Visit the Tatra Mountains

While these are in the south of the country on the border with Slovakia, it's hard to imagine many better trips you can take within Poland.

Comfortable, direct trains run daily to Zakopane from Warsaw. This small town is set at the base of the Tatra Mountains, making it the perfect place for a few nights of hiking in spectacular, alpine-like environments.

Eat at a 'Milkbar'

Eat at a 'Milkbar'

'Bar mleczny' establishments first appeared in post-war Poland during the communist era. They were created as part of the government's effort to provide affordable meals to workers and students. The name "milk bar" comes from their original purpose of serving dairy-based meals, though their menus have expanded over time.

Today, they are great places to sample a wide range of national cuisine and seemingly frequented by people of all walks of life. These types of restaurants can be found all cross the city, Mleczarnia Jerozolimska represents a partocularly convenient option with a cental location and McDonalds style touch screen ordering.

Expect a no frills ambience, but generous portions of hearty food, served promptly.

Visit  'Targ Śniadaniowy'

Visit 'Targ Śniadaniowy'

The Breakfast Market runs on weekends from late April through September, serving a wide range of local produce and international cusine. On Saturdays, it's open from 9 AM to 4 PM near Plac Inwalidów in Żoliborz. On Sundays, it moves to Skwer AK Granat in Mokotów.. For more detals, check their website.

Exercise

Walk

Zakopane to Kasprowy Wierch

If you make it to Zakopane, this route takes you via Czarny Staw Gąsienicowy and eventually up to the peak of Kasprowy Wierch. There's a full restaurant and bar at the summit, with the option of a cable car taking you back down.

Run

Old Town + River

The Old Town and western bank of the Vistula provide a scenic and peaceful backdrop for morning runs. This area remains tranquil before the crowds appear later in the day.

Cycle

Loop to Karczew

There are quality gravel track rides following the Vistula River both north and south out of the city. Heading south along the western bank, you can take a car ferry to the small town of Gassy before heading back up the opposite side.

Run

Park Skaryszewski

If you're staying on the west side of the river, it’s well worth running over to the Praga-Południe district for a lap around the park. It is well-landscaped with a large lake on the western perimeter.

People

Whilst Warsaw may stand as something of an exception within Poland, as of 2024 it presents a notably more cosmopolitan atmosphere than certain conservative, immigration-sceptic social media accounts might lead you to believe.

The ongoing war across the border has resulted in a large Ukrainian diaspora in the city. There's also a notable Vietnamese community, alongside a diverse mix of international students and Belarusians.

As a city that’s not particularly popular with tourists, and even less so for remote workers, you're unlikely to encounter too many digital nomads. However, as a commercial hub, it does attract a number of expats to work in the city.

The Vistula River flows straight through the city and is a popular destination for runners and cyclists at all times of the day. In the evening, the area around Poniatowski Bridge comes alive with bars and restaurants, making it an excellent spot for nightlife.
The Vistula River flows straight through the city and is a popular destination for runners and cyclists at all times of the day. In the evening, the area around Poniatowski Bridge comes alive with bars and restaurants, making it an excellent spot for nightlife.

Notes

Positives

Remarkably easy city to get around.

The combination of an effective metro system, trams, buses, city bikes, and scooters makes it easy to get between two points no matter where you are. The city is remarkably flat, making most journeys painless.

Close to perfect summer weather.

Temperatures of up to 30°C are comfortable, not stuffy, and drop sufficiently at night to not warrant A/C.

Immune from the pressures of seasonal tourism.

There are dramatically fewer tourists in Warsaw compared to Krakow or neighbouring Prague, which may be ideal depending on what you are looking for.

A surprisingly strong variety of international food.

You may not naturally associate Poland with being a beacon of international cuisine, but I cannot recall seeing anywhere in Europe with such a large number of Thai and Vietnamese outlets.

Lots of good quality night-time venues.

The city has done a great job of converting old industrial facilities into architecturally diverse venues for street food markets and indoor dining. Fabryka Norblina, Browary Warszawskie, and Hala Koszyki, among others, are of a great standard.

Negatives

Not the most inspiring place.

It would be unfair to claim that Warsaw is a dull place. It just lacks any clearly defining characteristics that might make you fall in love with it. It’s unlikely that you’ll have the most vivid and memorable period of your life in the city. If you have a limited amount of time, you might be better off looking elsewhere.

Polish food doesn’t lend itself too well to the summer months.

I enjoy Polish cuisine, but most of the dishes are better suited to the cold winter months. Pierogis and hot soups don’t quite have the same appeal at 28°C in August.

Tips

Airalo is great value in Poland.

You can get a one-off 20GB data eSIM for £10.

If looking to hire a quality bicycle, head to a shop called 'Coffee Rider'.

Great quality gravel bikes can be hired for around 80 Zloty (£17) per day from their workshop. For a more casual ride across the city, Wygodny Rower offers city bikes very inexpensively.

If using the 'Veturilo' city bike scheme, ensure you can make phone calls on your device.

Veturilo is a popular city-wide dockless bike scheme allowing rides of up to 20 minutes for free. The one issue is that the bikes sometimes don’t lock properly when you return them. You cannot lock the bikes via the app and must ring the customer support centre. If you can’t make phone calls on your phone, this could be a real problem.

Double-check which airport you need to be at.

Chopin is much closer to the city centre, while Modlin is a fair distance away.

National train services are excellent quality and great value for money.

Book in advance on popular routes and times to ensure you get a seat reservation. Most IC trains feature a fully-fledged dining car serving freshly made breakfasts, coffees, and meals.

Planning a trip to Warsaw?

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