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LatviaLatviaVisited Aug 2023 · 1 week

Riga

A quiet and understated Baltic city.

Average7.3
Accommodation8.1
Coworking7.6
Value7.4
Excitement5.9
Living costs, excl. rent~$1,286
Mild and dry
JFMAMJJASONDMild and dry: Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep
Nomad visaComing soon
Population632,000
Fly into

RIX

This guide was written 3 years ago

Prices, opening hours and recommendations may have changed since my visit, so double-check anything important before you book.

Latvia's capital, harmoniously combines old and new elements.

Its varied architecture, historic Old Town, and food culture define it as a notable Baltic destination.

Worth it if you're nearby

Not enough happening in the town to justify a month-long stay, but sufficient for a weekend city break or a tour of cities in the Baltics. One week is ample.

At a glance

Accommodation

Great · #17 of 62

8.1/10

No shortage of accommodation options around the city centre and old town. Prices were reasonable, if nothing special.

How it compares

Coworking

Good · #32 of 62

7.6/10

Riga has no shortage of coworking options, with spaces dotted around the east side of the city. The Workland chain which has sites across the Baltics and Finland, was a great base for a short stay.

Value

Good · #45 of 62

7.4/10

Eating out is good value, with lots of options available across the city.

Excitement

Ok · #42 of 62

5.9/10

As one of the smaller European capitals, Riga somewhat underwhelms in this respect. Even within the city centre, where I was based during my stay, I found it notably quiet, verging on the mundane. After a fortnight, I felt as though I had exhausted the city's offerings.

How it compares

Plan

Summary

A friend's wedding in Stockholm prompted a visit to Northern Europe, with some cheap flights to Latvia providing a good excuse to visit a new country and spend a couple of weeks before heading West.

Cost of living

$1,286a month, before rent

Basic living costs, rent not included

Day-to-day spending for a month: two meals out and a coffee every day, three taxis and two nights out a week, a gym and a coworking desk. Add your rent on top.

Moderate
  • Meal in a casual restaurant$12
  • Speciality coffee$3.71
  • Pint of local beer$4.28
  • Cocktail$9.56
  • Taxi for 2 miles$8.44
  • Men's haircut$17
  • Women's haircut$37
  • Gym membership, monthly$50
  • Coworking, monthly$152

Prices as of Oct 2026. Confidence: medium (gym & coworking verified; other prices restated at 2026-10-07 exchange rates). Sources: numbeo.com, liveriga.com. Always check locally before planning around them.

Duration & season

Late August brought with it a real mix of weather, some lingering hot days from summer combined with some horrendous thunderstorms. The temperatures begin to really drop off coming into Autumn with long, cold winters ahead. I wouldn't be in a rush to head back there to experience the winters, when the accessibility to the great outdoor surroundings may be hindered.

By month

Typical temperatures and rainfall by month
MonthLow °CHigh °CRain mmNotes
January-4167snow
February-3246snow
March-11228
April11773
May52277
June1224103wet month · peak season
July1627138wet month · peak season
August142598wet month · peak season
September122458
October41372
November0942
December1452
Wettest months Peak season

Typical daytime highs and overnight lows, from the last two years of observations (Open-Meteo). Rain icons mark the wettest months.

Visitors a year
1.3M2024
Crowds
Medium
Peak season
Jun–Aug
Low season
Nov–Mar

Remote work visa

Digital nomad visa coming soon

The Latvian government has introduced a digital nomad visa that allows internationals to stay in Latvia for up to one year, with the possibility of renewal for another year, while working remotely. This visa aims to promote immigration of qualified individuals who can contribute to Latvia's business industry and economic sector. Authorities believe it will also boost the tourism sector by attracting remote workers. Although not available yet, the digital nomad visa is undergoing final approvals and changes before being officially launched for digital nomads. Updates on requirements and availability will be provided once finalized.

Read more about the visa

Working hours

Latvia operates in the Eastern European Time (EET) zone, which aligns well with typical European working hours.

Live & work

Where to stay

Whilst it is a relatively modest city in size, you'd be best off close to one of these areas.

Avoti

I stayed in the northern part of this district which is also easily commutable into the centre on foot, with lots of small cafes and bars dotted around.

Vecrīga

Recommended

There's no reason to not be in the heart of the Old Town if staying for a short trip.

Where to work

Riga has no shortage of coworking options, with spaces dotted around the east side of the city. The Workland chain which has sites across the Baltics and Finland, was a great base for a short stay.

Workland Telegraph coworking space

Workland Telegraph

Good coffeeTop locationQuality fit-out

The Workland chain has several outfits across the city, with this one being situated right in the heart of the Old Town. As well as an ideal location, it has a top quality fit out, with a well equipped kitchen with a decent coffee machine.

There's plenty of private spaces available for calls and it was a hassle free process to get set up. At the time of visiting, it was particularly quiet (I believe in due to the holiday season) so whilst it was incredibly peaceful, it certainly wasn't a hub of activity.

Would certainly return to this branch or any other in the chain on a subsequent visit to the Baltics.

Audēju iela 15, Centra rajons, Rīga, LV-1050

Food & drink

Coffee

Kalve Espresso Room

Small chain dotted across the city with several varieties of coffee to try alongside sweet baked goods.

Food

"Ausmeņa" Kebabs

Excellent kebabs, entirely enjoyable even if not intoxicated. Fresh sauces made + plentiful salad.

Drinks

Off the clock

Off work

Get lunch at the Central Market

Get lunch at the Central Market

Housed in five colossal former Zeppelin hangars, the market's diverse stalls showcase the essence of Latvian culture and culinary traditions. Best visited on the weekend when the stalls open early for breakfast.

Explore the Old Town

Explore the Old Town

The main draw to the city. The old town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a labyrinth of cobblestone streets and medieval architecture, featuring Gothic spires, vibrant facades, and charming squares. it get's particularly busy over the weekends and is the home to much of the areas nightlife.

Day trip to Jurmala

Day trip to Jurmala

Only a 30 minute train away from the centre of Riga, Jurmala is famed for its long sand beaches, tranquil pine forests, and charming wooden architecture. If you are a cyclist, there is a great path taking you directly there from the city.

Exercise

Run

Bastejkalna Park

Situated in the heart of the city, this beautifully landscaped park is an ideal place for a morning run.

Cycle

Cycle to Jurmala

The cycle path out of the city centre follows the train line through dense forests to the seaside resort of Jurmala. Mainly flat and well surfaced throughout.

Cycle

Coastal Cycle

Heading north out of the city there are numerous well marked bike routes with quieter beaches than Jurmala.

People

Throughout the duration of my stay, the Old Town was a consistent hive of activity with international tourists flooding the streets over the weekends. I wouldn't expect to find many remote workers setting up permenant camp there year round but I did meet a couple of people in the coworking space I was in.

Given there close historical ties to Russia, there's been a significant influx of Russians to the city as a result of the recent turmoil.

Notes

Positives

A small and manageable city.

You'll feel like you know it like the back of your hand within a week.

Surprisingly warm weather in summer.

Whilst not a stereotypical summer destination, there's sufficient heat to head to the beach.

Good value for money.

Still cheaper than other major European capitals.

Visible tech scene.

Latvia like the rest of the Baltics, Riga has a vibrant tech scene making it a suitable place for networking.

Negatives

Not very exciting.

It doesn't feel like there's an awful lot going on, even in the centre of the city. If you are looking for a bustling working environment, I would look elsewhere.

There seems to be a severe alcohol problem in the city.

I can't remember visiting somewhere with so many heavily inebriated people visible on the streets. All of them harmless but by no means a beneficial addition.

Long, cold winters.

Whilst the Baltics capitals can make for a great winter city break, I'd have little interest in spending a prolonged period working there throughout the winter months.

Tips

I would consider visitng as part of a wider tour of the Baltic cities.

I was quite happy to to depart after 2 weeks which felt like more than enough time. Travel between Riga, Vilnius and Tallin is relatively easy and inexpensive.

Download Bolt before arriving.

Taxi's are relatively inexpensive to the city centre from the airport.

Planning a trip to Riga?

Partners I recommend. Some of these links give you a discount, and I may receive a referral reward.

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