Skip to content

TurkeyTurkeyVisited Jul 2023 · 1 month

Izmir

The best city in Europe that you've never heard of?

Top ratedGreat value
Average7.6
Accommodation7.4
Coworking7.2
Value8.2
Excitement7.7
Living costs, excl. rent~$931
Mild and dry
JFMAMJJASONDMild and dry: Mar, Apr, May, Oct, Nov
Nomad visaAvailable
Population4.3 Million
Fly into

ADB

This guide was written 3 years ago

Prices, opening hours and recommendations may have changed since my visit, so double-check anything important before you book.

Turkey's third-largest city and a vibrant coastal metropolis.

Located on the Aegean coast at the head of the Gulf of Izmir, the city has long been a vital centre of trade and commerce. Founded as the Greek city of Smyrna, the city boasts remnants of its Hellenic heritage alongside modern skyscrapers.

Strongly recommend

Would confidently recommend Izmir as a destination for anyone seeking a unique European city-style experience. Enough to keep entertained for a weekend city break if already in Turkey.

At a glance

Accommodation

Good · #41 of 62

7.4/10

One of the better Turkish cities for Airbnbs, if booking in advance you shouldn't have a problem finding a good value apartment. Double check for A/C in summer months as it can be surprisingly uncommon in some older buildings.

How it compares

Coworking

Good · #41 of 62

7.2/10

Izmir has a solid selection of coworking options, with the majority of them towards the Bayraklı area. The area is easily accessible using public transport from either Alsancak or Karşıyaka.

Value

Great · #20 of 62

8.2/10

Out of anywhere i have visited in the country I believe Izmir represents some of the best value. The quality of the infrastructure is high and there is great quality food and drink available at comparatively great prices to the rest of Europe. Don't expect too many bargains if heading to Çeşme or Alaçatı.

Excitement

Good · #20 of 62

7.7/10

I found a great ambience in Izmir during both of my summer trips. The area around Alsancak is consistently busy, with plenty of options for restaurants and nightlife on weekends. On the opposite side of the bay, Karşıyaka is another vibrant hub, with both areas lively until the early hours. While dramatically smaller than Istanbul, there’s more than enough to keep you entertained throughout a month.

How it compares

Plan

Summary

I visited Izmir briefly for a week in 2022 and when it came to picking out destinations for the next summer it was top of the list.

Cost of living

$931a month, before rent

Basic living costs, rent not included

Day-to-day spending for a month: two meals out and a coffee every day, three taxis and two nights out a week, a gym and a coworking desk. Add your rent on top.

Affordable
  • Meal in a casual restaurant$8.00
  • Speciality coffee$2.50
  • Pint of local beer$3.00
  • Cocktail$7.00
  • Taxi for 2 miles$4.00
  • Men's haircut$10
  • Women's haircut$25
  • Gym membership, monthly$64
  • Coworking, monthly$149

Prices as of Oct 2026. Confidence: medium (gym & coworking verified; other prices restated at 2026-10-07 exchange rates). Sources: numbeo.com, regus.com. Always check locally before planning around them.

Duration & season

Even with temperatures getting up to 35 degrees on a couple of days, the heat never felt too severe when in the city, the caveat being that is only the case if where you are working from and where you are staying has A/C. Mornings were the perfect temperature for a run and the evenings go late into the night with people eating and drinking outdoors.

With over 300 days of sunshine a year, similar to Athens you are likely to always get some clear skies in the city. May would probably be the perfect balance between being able to make the most of the beaches and outdoors, without it being too scolding.

By month

Typical temperatures and rainfall by month
MonthLow °CHigh °CRain mmNotes
January714115wet month
February51338
March62119
April112664
May132937
June22390peak season
July25404peak season
August24384peak season
September183327peak season
October122650
November92279wet month
December714131wet month
Wettest months Peak season

Typical daytime highs and overnight lows, from the last two years of observations (Open-Meteo). Rain icons mark the wettest months.

Visitors a year
1.7M2024
Crowds
Medium
Peak season
Jun–Sep
Low season
Dec–Feb

Remote work visa

Digital nomad visa available

Turkey has launched a digital nomad visa programme for remote workers. If you're between 21 and 55 and hold citizenship from one of 36 countries across Europe and North America (including the US), you're eligible to apply.

The visa allows you to live and work remotely in Turkey for a set period, with benefits including affordable living costs, healthcare access, and the opportunity to experience Turkey's culture and scenery.

The requirements are standard for these types of visas. You'll need a valid passport with at least six months remaining, health insurance, proof of income, and documentation showing you're employed or self-employed.

The application process is handled online through Turkey's official platform. Once they've reviewed your documents and approved your application, you'll receive a Digital Nomad Identification Certificate. Take that certificate along with your supporting documents to a Turkish visa centre or consulate to complete the process.

Turkey is positioning itself to attract the growing digital nomad market. For remote workers considering their next base, Turkey offers lower living costs compared to most Western European destinations.

Read more about the visa

Working hours

Turkey adheres to GMT+2 in summer, reverting to GMT+3 in winter due to the absence of daylight saving time practices.

Live & work

Where to stay

Izmir is a massive city and whilst it is well connected by public transport, I'd suggest being close to one of these hubs.

Bornova

Situated away from the seafront, the area is still a lively destination with a glut of dining and nightlife options. Closer to the main coworking spaces available in Bayraklı.

Alsancak

The busiest area of Izmir and the commercial hub. A great area to stay but somewhere I struggled to find good apartments in. Easy to access all other parts of the city.

Bostanlı

Recommended

I stayed here for 6 weeks and loved every minute of it. Great transport connections with the ferry and Izban and incredible sunsets from the pier. Loads of great local and international food.

Where to work

Izmir has a solid selection of coworking options, with the majority of them towards the Bayraklı area. The area is easily accessible using public transport from either Alsancak or Karşıyaka.

Originn Coworking coworking space

Originn Coworking

Top rated
Good coffeeQuality fit-outOutdoor spaceOn-site café

Situated in Bornova, a five minute walk from the Sanayi Izban station, Originn is a large, industrial feeling coworking space with a range of options for hot desking, fixed desk and private offices.

Desks are large, wifi is strong and there is an on site cafe serving coffees throughout the day as well as on site kitchen with a rotating daily menu. Most importantly during summer, the A/C keeps it pleasantly cool. If it does get too hot, there is an area for taking a nap also, which I did make occasional use of.

There aren't a lot of places to take calls in private, but the space is so large and open, it was never a problem. The surrounding area is something of an industrial estate, but there is a supermarket within 5 minutes walk as well as more options for food and coffee.

Even if you are staying on the other side of town in Bostanlı, I would say it's the best option in town and worth heading over for.

Kazımdirik, 296/2. Sk No:33, 35100 Bornova/İzmir

Food & drink

Coffee

Gracia Coffee Co.

Top rated

Super friendly staff serving great coffee. I spent many an evening relaxing on the deck chairs outside watching the sungo down.

Food

Üstat Kebap

One of the best kebabs i had in Izmir, would recommend if ever passing through Bayraklı.

Kupika

Top rated

I didn't think it was possible to find a truly great pizza in Turkey, but Kupika does incredible neapolitan style pizzas both for eat in and take out. Would recommend the Sujuk topping.

By Halil Usta

Top selection of kebabs served in an informal setting. Adana kebab recommended.

Drinks

La Puerta

Fun pub with outdoor seating showing international live sport. Good place for the football on the weekend.

Off the clock

Off work

Visit the Historical Elevator

Visit the Historical Elevator

Some of the best views from the city can be had from this historic viewpoint, with a selection of lively bars and restaurants at it's base. Ideal to visit at sunset.

Grab some shade in the Kültürpark

Grab some shade in the Kültürpark

Situated just a moments walk from the hub of Alsancak, the park provides an ideal shaded retreat unwind in with an amusement park and Jazz club.

Day trip to Foça

Day trip to Foça

A perfect day trip from the centre of Izmir, Foça provides a more relaxed destination to unwind, with numerous beach clubs dotted alongside it's coastside. Voodo Beach was worth a day spent under the shade of an umbrella.

Explore Alaçatı & Çeşme

Explore Alaçatı & Çeşme

Out of these two, I much preferred Alaçatı which provides an abundance of eating and drinking options, with white sand beaches a 10 minute drive away. Both are easily accessible from the centre of Izmir with regular buses departing from the central bus station & Fahrettin Altay.

Visit Ephesus Ancient City

Visit Ephesus Ancient City

Impressive archaeological site with monumental ruins of Roman & Greek temples. Little shade on a hot day, so come prepared. Reachable by train from the centre of Izmir.,

Exercise

Walk

Balçova Terapi Ormanı

In the south west of the city and easily accessible via the metro or ferry, the Balçova forest has numerous hiking routes amongst dense woodland.

Walk

Izmir Hills

The hills to the north of Karşıyaka are more baron than those in Balcova but provide great views towards Foça from the top.

Run

Bostanli Loop

The whole area from Mavişehir to Alaybey on the north coast of the city provides a perfect uninterrupted running route through numerous parks and ferry docks.

Walk

Çeşme Beach Loop

On the southern coastline between Çeşme and Alaçatı are a number of secluded beachfronts and more lively beach clubs. Tough one in the heat.

People

There's not much of a remote work community in the city however I did spot a couple of Facebook expat groups which appear to exist. Izmir draws in people throughout the country with a good mix of locals and others.

Izmir is known to be one of, if not the most liberal city in Turkey and in areas like Bostanlı and Alsancak, there's little to suggest that you may in a country with such strong Islamic ties. Local people are friendly with English generally spoken well in most cafes and bars especially by the younger generations.

The city itself is not much of a tourist destination, but you are likely to see people passing through en route to vacations in the hotspots of Çeşme and Alaçatı.

Notes

Positives

A less stressful alternative to Istanbul.

The size of Izmir makes it infinitely more manageable, whilst maintaining the feel and ambience of a big city.

Amazing sunsets.

The rolling hills and water that border the cities edges provide incredible sunsets on a nightly basis.

Activity continues late into the night.

It's not uncommon for coffee shops to remain open until 23:00 or later in the summer months. The city feels safe to walk around deep into the night.

Not a huge tourist destination.

Neighbouring beachside towns like Çeşme pull in tourists from all over Turkey and the rest of the world, but the city of Izmir feels remarkably immune from any of the trappings that come with it.

Great nature on your doorstep.

You don't have to travel far to get out of the city.

Perfect summer weather.

Of the 6 weeks I spent there, there were 3 overcast days.

Negatives

No beaches immediately in the city.

If You'll have to drive to leave the city itself to get to the nearest beaches, however these are reachable within an hour.

The city itself isn't particularly great for a holiday.

Whilst I loved working from there, I'm not sure exactly what you would do on a city break. Sufficient for two or three days.

Planning a trip to Izmir?

Partners I recommend. Some of these links give you a discount, and I may receive a referral reward.

SafetyWing

Specialised, flexible insurance for prolonged trips away.

  • Buy while abroad
  • Global coverage
  • Simple, online claims process
  • 24/7 human support

For trips exceeding 30 continuous days, seek dedicated travel insurance. Most holiday policies or credit card offerings become invalid after 30 days, despite advertising year-round protection. SafetyWing provides medical and travel coverage specifically designed for remote workers.

Having successfully claimed through their platform with impressive speed, I confidently recommend their service.

Sign up and get $20 off

Learn more

Airarlo

Easy access to data on your phone wherever you are in the world.

Get $2.50 off your first purchase

Learn more

Western Union

A convenient alternative to high ATM fees or carrying around cash.

Register and earn £10

Learn more

Suggestions or improvements?

If there's anything you feel that could make these guides more useful, let me know.
Leave a comment

Say hi!

If you've got any questions on any of the destinations or in remote work in general, give me a shout on LinkedIn.
Get in touch

Take every guide with you

The free iOS app has every guide offline, live weather and local time, costs in your currency, and bookmarks for your shortlist.