Chiang Mai

I previously visited Chiang Mai for three nights during a 2017 SE Asia trip. While I enjoyed it, I wasn't compelled to return - compared to Bangkok, Ho Chi Minh or Hanoi, it lacked the pizzazz and energy of the region's major cities.

As a historically popular destination for remote work, much has been written about how it's not what it was - now too busy, increasingly gentrified, a victim of its own success. Seeking somewhere to make the most of some free time over Christmas/New Year, I thought I'd give it another shot.

Christmas and New Year felt an ideal time to be in the city. During the dry season, which runs from November to February, there wasn't a single day of rain and nothing but wall-to-wall sun throughout. Around New Year's Eve, there was a noticeable spike in how busy the city felt, though this never felt overwhelming.

The 'burning season' runs from February to April and is widely considered the worst time to visit due to poor air quality from agricultural burning practices across the region. Tourist numbers typically drop throughout this period. I spoke to several people who planned to stay during this time, but the general consensus was that it's best avoided.

The rainy season from May to October is considered the off-season, with short bursts of daily rain expected, peaking in August and September. The brief, predictable nature of the rain means it's not necessarily debilitating, but may hinder outdoor exploration due to muddy footpaths.

If it's your first time in the city, visiting during the high season will give the best impression and the greatest opportunity to explore the outdoors. The higher costs during this period aren't particularly significant by international standards.

If you're on a time-restricted schedule, you could experience everything you need to in two weeks. If not, there's enough to enjoy for a relaxed month or longer.

While the core of the city is relatively compact, it's worth paying attention to where you plan to stay, with each area having distinct characteristics and attracting different demographic groups.

All areas listed below are within an hour's walk of each other, or a 10-minute journey by motorbike.

For a city of around 130,000 people, there's an incredible density of coworking spaces across Chiang Mai. While the area of Nimman has the highest concentration, you'll find options spread across the city. I opted for Nim Space, which I've written about further below.

The sheer abundance of coffee shops, many of which are open until 22:00 and beyond, present viable options for getting work done, with most offering Wi-Fi access with purchases.

Many of the spaces are smaller than what you'd find in a major city and can reach capacity quickly. If you're working European hours and starting later in the day, you may struggle to find a hot desk, as venues often fill up during morning hours. If you have your eyes on a certain space, enquire as far in advance as possible, especially if travelling during the high season.

I have a tendency to agonise over finding the right place to work from, so I visited several options during my first week:

Yellow - The largest and most famous. I had a quick scan around but something didn't quite click with it for me. Something about the space felt somewhat depressing. The air conditioning wasn't particularly strong, the interior felt a little tired and you could sense the potential for the desk space reaching an uncomfortable capacity. One of the more expensive options where the premium didn't quite seem worth it. Worth popping by, but keep in mind there are (numerous) alternatives.

Alt_ChiangMai (Old City) - Stylish, quiet, professional space in a particularly peaceful street within the Old Town. I would have signed up on the spot, but they were at capacity until the second week of January. They have another site closer to the Ping River on the other side of town which is also worth considering.

The Brick - Would have happily worked from here, but the hot desks were all full by 1pm. Worth considering if starting early in the day and don't need the security of a consistent desk.

CAMP - The Maya Shopping Centre features a free coworking facility on its top floor, which is popular with local students, with two hours of internet provided with a drink purchase. For a free space, it's impressive. But as it's deathly quiet and if you'll be on calls throughout the day, it's not a viable option. A handy option if you need somewhere to focus for a few hours.

Buri Siri Hotel - I ended up working from here for a day over the New Year holiday while a lot of places were closed. For a very reasonable 150 THB (£3.60) you get a day of coworking and a complimentary drink. Wouldn't consider it for long-term but absolutely fine for a day, plus you can pay a small surcharge to use the pool. Food from the restaurant was tasty and reasonable value.

Punspace Tha Phae Gate - Realistically this was too far from Nimman for a daily walk but it looked a large, airy and spacious option with solid reviews online. Worth checking out if in the area.

Chiang Mai certainly lives up to its reputation as a remote work hub. Expect to hear Russian, Australian and practically every European accent well represented across its coworking spaces. Similar to Bangkok, I found myself naturally connecting with more people than practically anywhere else I've visited.

Compared to cities such as Lisbon or Medellin, which are often cited for the negative impact on local economies from heavy influxes of remote workers, it didn't feel as much of a concern here. Instead, it feels as if it's just another varied and welcomed strand in the city's well established history of tourism.

While you'll find an international mix across the city, certain areas appear to draw particular groups more than others. Nimman is especially popular with Korean and Chinese tourists (partly due to visa relaxation laws with the latter), with European and North American backpackers more likely to be found around Tha Phae Gate.

There's no denying that it's a city heavily geared towards tourism in every sense. Much of the city's industry revolves around satiating that tourist appetite (does Nimman really need 20+ coffee shops?!). Prior to visiting, I'd read a lot about it feeling overdone in that regard. Personally, I didn't feel it was that bad.

Of course, you encounter people obtrusively waving around selfie sticks. Certain flavour-of-the-month restaurants will attract staggeringly long queues. Popular night-time venues like The North Gate Jazz Co-operative seem to attract foreigners like moths to a flame.

But you can opt-out of this. It's all easily avoidable. There are small pockets of intense tourist saturation which soon dissipate within a five-minute walk.