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AzerbaijanAzerbaijanVisited Apr 2025 · 1 month

Baku

A blustery and uneventful month in the city of winds.

Great value
Average7.4
Accommodation6.8
Coworking8.4
Value8.5
Excitement5.9
Living costs, excl. rent~$918
Mild and dry
JFMAMJJASONDMild and dry: Apr, May, Sep, Oct, Nov
Nomad visaNone
Population2.5 Million
Fly into

GYD

The historical crossroads of East and West.

Baku sits at the crossroads of historical trade routes between Europe and Asia, serving as Azerbaijan's largest city and main port since medieval times. Its UNESCO-recognised walled inner city dates to the 12th century, while surrounding it are Soviet-era buildings and an array of post-modern developments funded by the country's substantial oil wealth.

Give it a miss

It's not that Baku is a bad destination, it just doesn't warrant the likely strenuous journey to get there from wherever your origin is. I enjoyed my time, but would struggle to make any compelling argument on why you should apply any urgency in booking your flights.

At a glance

Accommodation

Good · #45 of 62

6.8/10

Airbnb felt like it had a number of potential pitfalls in Baku. The major one is the dated and overly stylised interior decor of much of the stock available. Expect listings with overly ornate Ottoman features and heavy patterned carpets offering something of a complete contrast to what you might expect in somewhere with minimalist interiors in South East Asia.

The second is the quality of the new build apartments. I heard from several people that new build developments in Azerbaijan are plagued by corruption and cost cutting, and I felt like I experienced this very clearly first-hand. Having taken a chance staying in a brand new listing at the recently completed Nizami City development, it felt exemplary of issues mentioned. Considering it had only been completed at the turn of the year, the building already showed significant signs of wear. Quality of fittings was poor, the grouting looked like it had been completed by a hungover apprentice and the wallpaper had fallen off the walls in four different points.

Having spoken to locals this does not sound like an isolated experience, so I would suggest prioritising properties with a history of higher rating reviews.

Whilst not necessarily cheap, prices for a one-bedroom apartment remain great value on Airbnb compared to what you might expect in Western Europe. Expect to pay around £900 for a good quality apartment for a month, with the price being significantly cheaper if booking long-term off platform.

Overall, Airbnb in Baku felt very similar to Turkey, where for whatever reason, it rarely seems to run as smoothly as in other places.

How it compares

Coworking

Great · #13 of 62

8.4/10

Baku has a great selection of places to work from. Having visited a few options across the city, I feel with great confidence that what is on offer at the Lotfi Zadeh Technology Center is comfortably the best not just in the city but in the country. More details in the section further below.

Value

Great · #10 of 62

8.5/10

Your money goes far in Baku. Over the past 10 years the manat has weakened substantially, making a lot of day-to-day living expenses incredibly low if you are earning abroad.

Eating out in particular is especially inexpensive; expect to pay around 10 Manat (under £5) for a 'business lunch' in a reasonable quality restaurant, featuring a soup, main course and drink. Glasses of wine in bars in the city centre can cost as low as 6 Manat (£3).

Low wages and petrol prices result in taxi prices being almost unbelievably cheap, with the 20km journey from the airport costing under £4 on Bolt. Imported items tend to carry a notable premium, however, with some bizarrely priced items like a can of PRIME energy drink costing more than a day's pay on the country's minimum wage. Prices of coffee was notably high by local standards, with prices frequently matching or exceeding what you may expect in a city like Madrid.

Excitement

Ok · #42 of 62

5.9/10

Even Baku’s strongest admirers would struggle to argue that it ranks among the world’s most exciting cities. It lacks the urgency and drive typically found in major capitals. Although given its isolated location within a region not especially known for being particularly dynamic, this isn’t exactly unexpected.

That being said, it would be both unfair and inaccurate to call Baku boring. Compared to nearby, similarly sized Tbilisi, it holds up reasonably well. There’s enough happening on a day-to-day level to keep you engaged over the course of a month-long stay, especially if you're primarily there for work during the week.

Where it falls short in comparison to its Georgian neighbour is access to nature. There felt little reason to explore Baku’s broader urban sprawl, and without committing to a proper excursion well beyond the city limits, there’s limited incentive to leave the centre. The Caspian coastline is relatively uninspiring, and the city’s persistent winds often make spending time outdoors some what uncomfortable.

How it compares

Plan

Summary

I fancied exploring somewhere new for the Summer of 2025 and Baku felt like the natural first stop on a journey towards Central Asia.

Part of Azerbaijan's appeal was the purported similarities to Turkey, somewhere I've enjoyed several trips to. The similarities between the two extend to a saying of 'one nation, two countries' reflecting the long-standing kinship between the two.

Chess remains ever popular and a consistent feature of public spaces in Azerbaijan, with large, life-sized boards found in various spots around the city. Watching the men eagerly await the next move can be an activity in itself.
Chess remains ever popular and a consistent feature of public spaces in Azerbaijan, with large, life-sized boards found in various spots around the city. Watching the men eagerly await the next move can be an activity in itself.

Cost of living

$918a month, before rent

Basic living costs, rent not included

Day-to-day spending for a month: two meals out and a coffee every day, three taxis and two nights out a week, a gym and a coworking desk. Add your rent on top.

Affordable
  • Meal in a casual restaurant$8.83
  • Speciality coffee$3.53
  • Pint of local beer$1.77
  • Cocktail$6.01
  • Taxi for 2 miles$2.50
  • Men's haircut$8.01
  • Women's haircut$20
  • Gym membership, monthly$48
  • Coworking, monthly$120

Prices as of Oct 2026. Confidence: low. Sources: livingcost.org, workin.space. Always check locally before planning around them.

Duration & season

My four weeks were split between the second half of April and the beginning of what felt like a particularly underwhelming May by local standards. Temperatures hovered around 20 degrees but often felt significantly cooler thanks to the persistent winds sweeping across the city. As an additional barometer, my Birkenstocks only made it out for a handful of outings.

From June through to August, temperatures routinely reach around 30 degrees. If you're chasing decent weather, these are the months to aim for. The Caspian Sea isn't especially known for its beaches, but you'll find a few convenient spots to the coastal areas east of the city that work well for summer days. The city sees a surge in activity around the annual Grand Prix in September, which might be worth factoring into your plans.

How long do you need in Baku? If you're flying in for a long weekend, you could easily see the main sights in two days. There's not quite enough to justify a stay of several months, but it turned out to be a surprisingly good place to knuckle down and focus on work for a stretch.

By month

Typical temperatures and rainfall by month
MonthLow °CHigh °CRain mmNotes
January4812
February2729
March51328
April92154wet month · peak season
May132440peak season
June213218peak season
July243514
August24334
September172920peak season
October132346wet month · peak season
November91734
December61051wet month
Wettest months Peak season

Typical daytime highs and overnight lows, from the last two years of observations (Open-Meteo). Rain icons mark the wettest months.

Visitors a year
2.1M2024
Crowds
Medium
Peak season
Apr–Jun, Sep–Oct
Low season
Dec–Feb

Remote work visa

No digital nomad visa

Working hours

Azerbaijan operates on Azerbaijan Time (AZT), which is GMT+4 throughout the year, as the country does not observe daylight saving time.

If you are maintaining alignment with European working hours, this means a slight adjustment to your working day. I would generally start a bit later towards 10:00, finishing up a little later into the evening.

These hours actually work quite well given the late-leaning attitude of the country. The coworking space I went to was generally dead until 13:00, with those working for European or American clients adjusting their working hours accordingly.

Safety

Baku has a reputation for being a safe city with little tolerance for petty crime.

I saw nothing that gave me any cause for concern. People walk around freely late into the evening, both in the city centre and the surrounding areas.

You get the feeling police like to make their presence felt.

There's a noticeable number of officers around the city, and they appear to take great pleasure in routinely using their in-car speakers to assert a bit of authority. On a few occasions, they appeared to be calling people over, possibly for routine checks, or maybe just out of boredom. I was summoned once myself just walking down the street, but after I mentioned I was from England, they waved me off immediately.

Taxis are likely to be your biggest source of friction.

Like so many other places in the world, avoid using conventional taxis and stick to the apps, especially when arriving at the airport. Even then, be aware that some Bolt drivers may try to ask for cash despite the app handling payment. I even left the first Bolt I entered due to the driver's insistence that cash had to be provided. In the rest of the city, the service worked fine.

You’re required to register with the police if staying more than 15 days.

In my case, this was handled by my Airbnb host, which I’d expect is fairly standard.

Live & work

Where to stay

If you're planning to work from a coworking space in Baku, I’d strongly recommend staying within close walking distance of the Caspian Plaza complex in Nizami.

One of the things I appreciated most during my month in the city was having everything I needed within a five-minute walk of my apartment. There are very few cities where I’d make such a specific and singular location recommendation, but in Baku’s case, it’s worth making that a priority.

Nizami

Recommended

The area of Nizami (not to be confused with Nizami Street in the city centre) was where I stayed most recently and what felt like an ideal place to base yourself if there for a month. It's a 20-minute walk to the city centre and within the area itself you have what felt like the most energetic, business-focused area of the city with several large commercial offices. You've got the Lofti coworking space, a Fitway gym, numerous options for lunch and dinner, plus a large selection of coffee shops and bars. Was very happy with what was a coincidental choice to stay there.

City Center

I wouldn't prioritise the city centre for a remote work trip. It's not a bad place to visit, but felt like a better place to dip in and out of, rather than be a permanent base. The area around 'Molokan Gardens' felt like the epicentre of sorts with reasonable crowds gathering around its neighbouring streets over the weekend. It's not an area people would necessarily commute to work in during the middle of the week, with Nizami and the area around 28 May home to more commercial real estate. You're likely to find a better deal, potentially in some more modern accommodation, a little bit further out.

Bayıl

Residential area set to the immediate south of the city centre, following the bay down close to Flag Square Park. There are lots of what appeared to be good quality newer residential buildings and it has convenient access to the city centre along the promenade. Would be a little bit too quiet for me, but worth considering if a good deal on accommodation comes up.

Where to work

Baku has a great selection of places to work from. Having visited a few options across the city, I feel with great confidence that what is on offer at the Lotfi Zadeh Technology Center is comfortably the best not just in the city but in the country. More details in the section further below.

To complement, you've got a huge range of coffee shops which are well set up for periods of working from, with some of the latest opening hours I can recall seeing. Expect most places to stay open until 23:00 with some shutting as late as 01:00. They are never that busy and internet quality is generally sufficiently reliable. Cafe Botanist was a particularly strong option, with a dedicated working area in it's basement.

There are no WeWorks and the independent providers might not quite have the same level of quality you might expect in the West, but you won't struggle to find somewhere to work from.

Lotfi Zadeh Technology Center coworking space

Lotfi Zadeh Technology Center

Top rated
Top locationOutdoor spaceOn-site café

Unquestionably your best choice in the city.

The third coworking space I visited in Baku was without doubt what felt like the best option in the city. The main coworking space is spread across the 15th and 16th floors of the Caspian Plaza office complex, with dedicated offices filling the other floors. You can opt for either hot desk access or a dedicated desk.

Unless you need the space for an extra monitor, there's little need to opt for a dedicated desk as the space was well below capacity each day. If you are looking for a calm, professional and quiet space to work in, this is ideal; however, it does suffer from being a little quiet with limited natural light. Access to the space is controlled by Face ID at turnstiles, and with a monthly membership, you get 24/7 access.

Where I found the best place to work from was in the 'Fuzzy Coffee & Wine' café which is on the 17th floor of the building and is part of the same ownership group. This resembles more of a typical WeWork mixed-use space, with rows of dedicated seating and a more ambient atmosphere. In terms of design and build, this is one of the few operations in Baku that felt at Western European levels of build quality.

The space is filled predominantly with locals, with occasional Russian and English accents to be heard working from the space, and there are plenty of areas with sofas to take calls. There's a large roof terrace looking over the city towards the Caspian Sea, good quality espresso from a local roaster and light meals served from the in-house café. Even though the space is open to the public, leaving your valuables unattended did not feel like a concern.

Outside the building, you've got a varied selection of coffee shops and spots for lunch, and out of anywhere I went in the city, this area had the most bustling working feel during the week.

You don't need a membership from LTC to work in the space on the 17th floor and there are no minimum purchases required for internet access, so it's worth spending a morning there to see if it suits your needs. Having access to the dedicated space in the floors beneath is handy if you need dedicated phone booths, want the reassurance of leaving your items for a prolonged period, or simply want access to more toilets.

Working from here was one of the highlights of the trip. If you are considering working from Baku, I'd suggest staying in close proximity to it.

Other options in Baku:

Openspace Coworking Centre - I was intending on signing up here, but having visited the area, I couldn't contemplate the idea of spending a month working in the Old City, which felt incredibly quiet. The space looked well furnished, but there's next to no ambience in the surrounding areas.

Fikir Coworking (28 May) - Small space with a selection of about 20 tables; would be fine for a week, but not somewhere I could imagine spending a month in. Little going on in the immediate area. Friendly and responsive staff via WhatsApp.

Cafe Botanist - Large coffee shop on the ground floor of Caspian Plaza, doubling up as a plant store. They have a dedicated coworking space in their basement with good-sized desks and plenty of natural light plus trees. If you need occasional space for a few hours, this is ideal.

44 Cəfər Cabbarlı küçəsi, Bakı 1065

Food & drink

Coffee

United Coffee Beans

Top rated

Small chain with a number of outlets dotted across the city and what I found to be consistently the best coffee. Locally roasted beans available from a number of international producers and a variety of brew methods available to enjoy in the tastefully decorated stores. Generally open until late in the evening.

Food

Eskulap

If you are looking for a rustic, traditional experience of Azerbaijani cuisine, look no further. Expect kebabs freshly prepared on a charcoal grill, with an equal amount of smoke coming from the BBQ as there are from the gentlemen smoking inside. Tasty salads, cold beers and friendly service. Definitely one of the city's 'male-only' venues. Bring cash.

Just Bread

One of the few destinations in the city that could be deemed to have something of a hipsterish aesthetic. Predominantly a bakery with a number of different set options for breakfast, as well as coffees.

Cook Box

Convenient lunch option if working in the Nizami area with a set-menu offering a starter, salad, main and drink for around 10 manats. Expect a Turkish style menu with menemen, koftes and soups.

Drinks

Pushkin Pub

Small bar popular with expats. Expect to see numerous British men in there enjoying a pint with the English Premier League. Food menu also.

Biblioteka.

Top rated

Fun, small bar with wine, cocktails and light meals. Has a fun feel over the weekend nights with a DJ playing at the back. Friendly service and very affordable prices.

Off the clock

Off work

Visit the Shahidlar Monument

Visit the Shahidlar Monument

Also known as Martyrs' Lane, the site is a memorial and cemetery in Baku dedicated to those who lost their lives during Black January (20 January 1990) when Soviet troops violently suppressed Azerbaijan's independence movement, and to those killed in the First Nagorno-Karabakh War.

Located on a hill in the western part of the city with some panoramic views overlooking the Caspian Sea, it features a symbolic eternal flame and tombstones with photographs of the deceased.

The memorial has become an important site of national remembrance and identity in post-Soviet Azerbaijan, commemorating those who died in the struggle for independence.

Exercise

Run

Seyid Cəfər Pişəvəri adına Park

Another convenient option if you are staying around Nizami is near the city's Zoo, where there is a pleasant running loop around the lake at Dədə Qorqud parkı. You can follow the path on the underpass to the recently developed Seyid Cəfər park. The lake is particularly nice in the evenings.

Run

Dövlət Bayraq Meydanı

If you head south from the park just below the city centre, you can follow the coastal path in the opposite direction, taking you past the Deniz Mall and down to the site of what is reportedly one of the largest national flag displays in the world. Continue further south for more well-landscaped parks including Azərbaycan Dənizçilərinin Xatirəsinə.

Run

Bakı bulvarı East

The waterfront just beneath the city centre makes for a great spot for a sunset run, with the route to the East taking you past the Crescent Mall and recently redeveloped Baku port. You can follow the path for another couple of miles through to the Ağ Şəhər Bulvarı park which borders the White City.

Run

Böyükşor Bulvarı

Böyükşor Bulvarı If you fancy getting out of the city, take the 20-minute metro journey to the 'Koroğlu' metro stop where you can quickly access a large lake with a well-paved 4-mile circuit around its perimeter. The lake itself isn't particularly inspiring, but it's a good route for an uninterrupted run.

Run

Mərkəzi Park

If you are staying in Nizami, this well-landscaped park is a great place to get a run in away from any traffic. Starting at its northern peak, it leads you down to the recognisable 'Təzəpir məscidi' mosque towards the Old City.

People

Despite its geographic isolation, Baku is more diverse than you might expect. Alongside Azerbaijani nationals, Russians and Turks are well represented across the city both as residents and tourists.

BP's longstanding presence also means you'll encounter a noticeable number of older British men, many of whom appear to be keeping the city's sports bars in healthy business over the weekends.

Thanks in part to a recent easing of visa restrictions, there's now a visible presence of Indian tourists in the city centre, with a smaller number of Chinese visitors as well, although this presence is very clearly concentrated in a limited area.

Although the Azerbaijani population is predominantly Muslim, the cultural atmosphere feels closer to the more liberal parts of Turkey or Albania, where religion is present but not dominant. The call to prayer is occasionally heard, and women wearing a niqab are sometimes seen, but somewhat surprisingly, the everyday visibility of Islam can feel less pronounced than in certain parts of the UK today.

The area around Caspian Plaza felt like the best place to base yourself, at least during the work week. There's a good working ambience which I didn't quite pick up on elsewhere across the city and a reliable range of places to eat and drink.
The area around Caspian Plaza felt like the best place to base yourself, at least during the work week. There's a good working ambience which I didn't quite pick up on elsewhere across the city and a reliable range of places to eat and drink.

Notes

Positives

Easy to get around.

The city centre is compact enough to explore entirely on foot. The metro mainly serves commuters from outlying districts, with few routes offering much benefit for getting around within the centre itself. Between walks and runs, I was able to cover all the areas that felt worth paying attention to.

Tasty food.

If you enjoy Turkish cuisine, you'll likely appreciate what's on offer in Baku. Azerbaijani food draws from Middle Eastern and Persian influences, featuring chargrilled kebabs, freshly baked lavash-style breads, yoghurt-based sides, and generous use of sumac. Look out for national dishes like 'Nar Govurma', a stewed beef dish with pomegranates. Eating out is very affordable by global standards. A sit-down meal in a quality restaurant with a starter and drink often comes in under £10. In terms of quality international food, there didn't appear much to make note of; however, the city centre had a notable concentration of Indian and Pakistani restaurants, appearing to primarily serve the large influx of tourists.

Friendly people.

I left with a particularly warm impression of the Azerbaijani people, even if there was a sense of confusion about why, of all places, you'd chosen to come to their city (sentiments often echoed by myself). There is without doubt a significant language barrier. English, if spoken, is likely to be their fourth priority behind Azerbaijani, Turkish and Russian. Yet even with these restraints, I found there was a warm curiosity and welcome that left a positive mark.

Very good value.

Even if you are eating out three times a day, you rarely need to check your bank balance. Costs are low across the city and if bringing a similar monthly budget to what you would spend in Europe, you'll either live a very lavish lifestyle, or return with some significant change (potentially both).

Negatives

Stuck in a bygone era.

Despite its best efforts at embracing modernity, it still feels like a city quite happily stuck in another era. Men have uniformly preserved an insistence on sporting white vests as undergarments, something phased out in the UK in the 1980s. Dating apps are awash with profiles featuring anonymous photos, to evade the social stigma of appearing on such platforms. The sustained presence of heavy Ottoman design influences continues to give the aesthetic a heavy sheen of nostalgia. The culmination of many such features leads to the impression that Baku isn't quite the modern city the tourism board would like you to think.

A shallow veneer of luxury and sophistication.

The glass skyscrapers, the Formula 1 race, and rows of designer shops are all not-too-subtle attempts at projecting the city as something of the Dubai of the Caucasus. And whilst they may have helped put the city on the map, it's unclear how much of that benefit truly trickles down to the population. Nationwide, average wages are some of the lowest in the region and for a petrostate, both GDP and local incomes sit dramitically below those of the Gulf states. The city is also clearly in no rush to remove its COP29 advertising which, 6 months after the event, is still visible across much of the city. Does any of this really concern you as a remote worker? No, but it plays into a wider thought of whether the city has truly found its identity.

Difficult to get to.

No matter where you are coming from, getting to Baku is a bit of a slog. Direct flights from Europe tend to carry a heavy premium, which is arguably not worth the investment, making a journey connecting via Istanbul significantly cheaper. When weighing up direct flights, for a similar cost and time expense you could get to New York. This places it in an awkward crux for Europeans, not far away or culturally different enough to be exotic, but also not close enough for a convenient weekend trip.

A visa is likely required.

The process was relatively painless as far as acquiring visas go, but again it is another factor which does not work in the country's favour. For somewhere already so difficult to access, visa requirements are an additional burden.

The wind.

It may appear pedantic to take offence against a usually innocuous weather feature, but the wind in the city stemming from the Caspian Sea is a persistent menace. The city's name itself is thought to derive from the Persian "Bādkube," meaning "city where the wind blows". Otherwise beautifully mild 20-degree spring days can experience an abrupt return to midwinter with the occurrence of sweeping gusts. This might be a feature rather than a bug in the 30 degree+ midsummer heat, but at the turn of the seasons it felt nothing but a nuisance.

Tips

I would strongly recommend the Fitway Gym in Nizami.

A month membership cost £60, which was expensive by local standards, but the quality of the equipment was high and it was never busy. Open from 7AM until 23:00.

If you require one, the eVisa is simple to obtain.

The application process is light and mine was approved within around four working days. There appeared to be Visa-on-Arrival machines at the airport, and the airline didn’t check my visa prior to departure, suggesting that may be an option. Check your own government's travel guidance to confirm entry requirements for your nationality.

Purchase any significant goods you may need prior.

If you need electrical items, get what you need before. You will not be finding an Apple Store in Baku and taxes on imported items bumped up the cost on certain items.

Google Maps can be inaccurate.

Especially for smaller independent businesses, verify any opening hours (or even the existence of the business) if you need to.

To use the metro, you’ll need a prepaid card which must be bought with cash.

These are available from machines near station entrances and cost around 2 manat, with each ride priced at 0.30 manat.

Planning a trip to Baku?

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